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  • Lens by Adi Toch and Edmond Byrne. 2020

Collect Open: New Collaborations

Collect Open, supported by Sanlam UK, offers a unique opportunity to individual artists or collaborations to exhibit alongside world-class galleries at Collect. In the run up to the fair we’ll be looking at the themes explored by the artists and collectives who are producing 12 new ambitious craft-led installations for this year’s Collect Open.

This week we look at the new collaborations that are bringing a unique fusion of disciplines at Collect Open.


Sarah Pulvertaft, Jed Green & Beatrice Mayfield

LOT is a collaborative project between three makers, the jewellers Sarah Pulvertaft and Jed Green and embroiderer Beatrice Mayfield. Their work is united through the importance of materiality, an interest in pattern, movement and with a thoughtful use of colour. Each of them imaginatively transforms raw materials into beautifully crafted, wearable objects. Between them they use a diverse range of precious and non-precious; resistant and non-resistant; uncommon and everyday materials. 

Sarah is known for using traditional jewellery-making techniques to create unique wearable objects in silver and gold. Repeated and articulated elements are central themes in her work making intriguing, undulating and rippling surfaces within circular frames. Jed’s sculptural jewellery is created from lampblown glass. Shapes are formed and linked together from clear tubes, then drilled and pinned to form moving pieces or set in clusters. Beatrice produces fabrics, embellished using traditional embroidery techniques and materials combined with the non-traditional from sequins and beads to petals and horsehair.

The three started developing a collaborative process of working, loosely based on the Exquisite Corpse method, a year ago. They reply directly through the work rather than designing as a trio. This form of working has encouraged each maker work both within and beyond their normal ways and to examine their usual methods.

The result, an opportunity for Sarah, Jed and Beatrice to present the collaborative process in a new, large-scale installation at Collect Open.


Adi Toch and Edmond Byrne

Adi Toch and Edmond Byrne are two makers with two distinct practices and material languages collaborating to make ambitious sculptural vessels. Their specialist practices are glass blowing and metalsmithing. Radically combining glass with silver and copper, they explore ideas around perceptions of material hierarchies within their work.

The makers have embarked on a long-term collaborative project exploring the meeting point of metal and glass to create an original body of work. We see these materials as possessing the narrative of the alchemy, the transformation between solid and liquid. We are intrigued by the occurrence and consequent meld between glass and metals. They fuse, react, stain, mirror, join, stress and oxidize.

At the core of this is the dialogue between materials as well as the confluence between us as makers. Having found similarities in their approach to making - both sharing a deep interest in science and in the research of colour - the cross-pollination of processes, materials and diverse approaches to contemporary craft-based practice will be examined and challenged throughout this collaboration.

For Collect Open, the aim of Adi and Edmond’s work will be to create three groups of fully resolved sculptural pieces as well as residual creations of the experimental processes as an outcome of their unique research.


Liana Pattihis and Sofia Björkman

Liana Pattihis and Sofia Björkman join forces to present an installation what showcases their shared ideas in two contrasting mediums.

Liana’s previous works have been inspired by images of flora and fauna, choosing images for their visual composition or aesthetic elements. Through her creative process, she gave these images a three-dimensional chained interpretation, thus converting them into wearable pieces of jewellery. For Collect Open, Liana has used reclaimed porcelain in her work and looked toward Victorian jewellery pieces for a source of inspiration.

Sofia Bjorkman, who also draws inspiration from the wilderness and cultivated landscapes, agrees that the poetic, as well as the symbolic meanings of gardens and gardening, can also be referenced in the jewellery field as a whole, where cooperation, inclusion diversity and community are very important in promoting creativity and personal growth. Sofia has embraced the technology of 3D hand drawings, creating pieces which are instantly recognizable and unique to her. 

Both makers believe gardens have an enchanting quality that has inspired artists of all kinds - representing spaces much more than just cultivated plots of land. They promote healing and learning, create romantic bonds and can even send one into magical realms.

Their collaboration, which will be an installation inspired by images of vertical wall gardens, will aim to create a vertical jewellery garden with a collection of 3D drawings and enamelled chain jewellery. Both their techniques aim to push the boundaries of their practice and are far from traditional.

See the installations from Collect Open at Collect from 27 February - 1 March 2020 at Somerset House.


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